When I left San Diego, Bonnie and Roger suggested I stay at La Posada in Winslow, AZ because it’s a beautiful hotel, and a little more than halfway to Taos.
(You might be wondering why I’d need a hotel room, when I have a perfectly lovely Sadie to sleep in. I have a confession: I left Sadie home for this trip. PLEASE DON’T TELL SADIE. Her little fiberglass feelings are very sensitive, plus I worry if she gets in a snit she might pull tricks on me next time, like locking me out or refusing to light the hot water heater. Thank you in advance for your discretion.)
La Posada is on Route 66, built in 1929 for the Santa Fe Railway, and designed by Mary Colter, who designed other famous buildings including the Grand Canyon’s Bright Angel Lodge. By the time I got to La Posada my passenger seat was piled with soggy Kleenex, and I was happy to see the hotel glowing in the twilight:
Welcome
The cheapest room was $120/night, which was a splurge since I’m used to staying for next to nothing in we-know-who. Plus there was no coffee in the room, which was odd. (Maybe the owners think the beauty of the place is enough to perk you up? Or they’re Mormon?)
Artist Tina Mion owns the hotel with her husband, and her paintings were everywhere. I loved them – they’re bright and weird and dark and funny – but there were signs stating it was strictly forbidden to photograph them.
I took that to mean strictly forbidden for people using flash, so I didn’t:
I covet the painting *and* that lamp.
A surreal extension of the dining area.
There were lobbies and sitting areas everywhere, even one with a fireplace, though I felt so rotten I didn’t enjoy any of them. Plus, I’m pretty sure I’d see a sign stating it was strictly forbidden to heap wet tissue on the furniture and sneeze uncontrollably:
Seriously, I'm obsessed with those lamps.
The whole place was like a museum, with one hallway dedicated to sculpture:
Yikes!
I stayed in the Gene Autry room, which had this very uncowboy-like but beautiful entryway:
I'm translating the light and stenciling to my house this year.
Bonnie and Roger had also recommended the hotel’s restaurant, the Turquoise Room. When I was checking in and the man at the reception desk finally deigned to help me (Customer service tip: Serve the customer) he sniffed, “You’d better make reservations at the restaurant now,” as if there were nowhere else to eat.
The combo of his bad attitude and my flu-dulled taste buds, which would be wasted on the expensive menu, sent me to Trip Advisor, where I found Casa Blanca. It was exactly what I wanted. I had the green chile chicken enchiladas ($9.95), which came with rice and beans, chips and a tiny carafe of salsa (the best way to serve it), plus a warm sopapilla. I drizzled that heavenly puff of carbo-goodness with honey and pretended it was some sort of flu folk remedy:
Also a pretend-folk remedy? Dos Equis.
A father and son played cards while the family waited for their meals, and my waitress seemed to know them and everyone else in the place. She was fast and friendly, and after I’d taken pictures of my dinner, she came by and asked about the camera. (A refreshing change from Texas, where no one asked about anything.)
We chatted, and she said she’d lived her whole life in Winslow, except for a short stint in Albuquerque, which didn’t stick because it was too big. She said Winslow had 10,000 people when she was born, and 10,000 people now, and “something about drinking the water keeps you here.” Fair enough.
After dinner I stopped at Oasis Liquor for cold meds and met Harold, the owner. Harold was from Chicago but moved to Winslow in 1948. He did a stint with the Airborne in WWII, and informed me he turned 89 on July 4 and weighed all of 115 pounds. He also informed me a few days earlier he’d been held up at gunpoint, but Harold wasn’t afraid and pushed the gun aside, telling the guy to scram. The would-be robber left without the money. When I told Harold he was brave, he grinned and said the .44 under the counter helped just a little.
Heading back to La Posada I spotted a lounge that looked seedy enough for me to consider stopping for another beer and chatting up the locals, but I realized I’d probably had enough fake-folk remedies and tucked myself in for the night. But I’ll go back some day, and bring Sadie. And pretend like I’ve never even seen La Posada.
love this…. love Harold. You must be having a blast!!!
If you can have that good a time when you are sick I’m not sure I could handle you being well. Get well anyway, OK?
Ah, that explains the dearth of camping tips on this ride.
There’s a Texas joke about people like Harold. “Never get in a fight with an geezer. They know the odds as well as you do, so they’ll probably just shoot you from distance.”
As for Sadie: There comes a time in any intimate relationship when you have to accept people for who they are or let them go. Better to get that out of the way with a little heart to heart. I mean, you can hardly hide the fact that you’ve gone gallivanting, can you? She may be an egg, but she wasn’t laid yesterday.
Don’t be surprised if she suddenly takes off on a couple of trips by herself, though. Fair’s fair, and all that.
Bob
Bob Giddings recently posted..Fall
“She may be an egg, but she wasn’t laid yesterday.” Good GOD, that’s funny stuff, Bob!
I’m sure the artwork and architectural details were quite lovely but nothing can beat the aesthetical beauty of that Casa Blanca dinner plate! WOW!
Kim
Kim recently posted..December Non-Purchases
You certainly know how to have a good time, D. I’m proud of you for your dinner choice. There’s nothing that gets my ire up faster than stuffy, self important people behind a counter. When I look at them, all I see is a bull’s-eye.
Hark! Who goes there? Harold, the holiday angel. We need more Harolds. Thanks for sharing him.
I usually go to a pharmacy for cold meds. I now see the error of my ways. NyQuil is only 20 proof. Maybe I should try something stronger.
Keep up the great work!
Paula – Harold was a gem. So lucky to have met him.
Linda – Right, when I’m well it’s all dancing on tables and jello shots. It’s exhausting. (I’m feeling much better, thank you.)
Bob G – It’s true. My relationship with Sadie has reached a new level, and I’ll have to be a grown-up and deal with the issues honestly. I have to admit, I have a jealous streak and wouldn’t love it if she were to run off on her own. In fact, she’s already been hanging out with Max, drinking margaritas and watching movies, and my heart is a little bit broken. But I’ll get over it.
Kim – I KNOW. God, it was good.
Max – Yeah, you wouldn’t have liked him. But Harold and the waitress made up for it.
Bob – Exactly. Maybe I should have gone for the pint of Bushmills.
Max and Sadie, eh?
Has it crossed your previously posited priapically pining mind, tick-tick-ticking down the metronomic miles out there in the middle of that dark and lonesome prairie, that maybe – just maybe – they might be having a steamy fibersexual moment? Even as we type?
The mind boggles. But only the Shadow knows….
Iago, trying to be helpful.
Bob Giddings recently posted..Fall
Wow. You had dinner at the White House!
LOL!
The La Posada was a regular stop for us on our way to Taos – until we recently decided we were burned out on shabby chic.
) The first few times we stayed there were magical however. We’ve enjoyed the Turquoise Room but it is very expensive and the menu really never changes so once you’ve eaten there a few times you start to hate spending the money. However, when they have squash blossoms it’s a real treat to have the stuffed squash blossoms. And, the special chocolate souffle shouldn’t be missed. I love the bar there too, but it’s muy expensive too. Worth it if you’re there to splurge – otherwise the Universe was very good to you, the Casa Blanca is the very best place in town. When we realized that we wouldn’t be staying at the La Posada anymore (which was the only reason to visit Winslow, AZ) we’ve been trying to work out ways to still go to the Casa Blanca.
Steve has suggested I write a book or guide on the best bathroom stops between Oceanside, CA and Taos, NM – or any of the other areas we frequent.
If you ever have any questions in that regard let me know. 
Chris Bundy recently posted..The Sunflower
If you’re into Navajo art and crafts, as well as Zuni and frequently other pueblo tribes – and you’re in Gallup, NM on a Saturday you should definately go to the huge flea market. It’s the BEST!!! You can get everything from a live goat to beautiful turquoise/silver jewelry. Never know exactly what will be there – but there’s always something wonderful. Sometimes nice Navajo rugs, sometimes pueblo pottery, always loads of jewelry. It’s the market place for the local Navajo (Dine) people – great horse tack too. We were usually the only non-Dine there. The prices are incredible too. However, once you know you can get incredible art/crafts for such good prices you’ll never be able to go to a trading post or gallery again.
Chris Bundy recently posted..The Sunflower
What a great post! So glad to hear you chose to pass up the snooty and go for something real. Thanks for posting pictures of the artwork, too. There would’ve been something missing in the story without those. Don’t think I could stomach a meal with that crowd there in the dining area.
Bob G – I just hope Max and Sadie are being safe.
Deborah – Ha! It was as close as I’ll ever get.
Chris – That’s actually a great idea about the bathroom stops book. Women country-wide would thank you. (Thanks for the tip on the Gallup flea market.)
Harper – Thanks! And you’re right, that painting in the dining area reminded me of something out of The Shining.
Lol. Safe as houses.
Bob Giddings recently posted..Fall
I’ve never tried Bushmills for my sinuses. Maybe that’s my problem.
Bob recently posted..Sick and tired
We’ve got a lot of good Bob action going on!